DECORATION on fabrics in Bulgarian Medieval Costume

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Some information about Bulgarian Medieval Costume details and materials.

Traditional decoration is embroidery – lace and pearls, testified during excavations and plain seen on the frescoes . Purl two types according to the way of production – by passing through the fabric and through attachment on it by an additional thin thread . In XIV century . predominates the second method , wherein the saving of the expensive material .

embroidered tape parallel stitch

Еmbroidered tape parallel stitch.

gold-embroidered pattern

gold-embroidered pattern from Stanichene

pearl embroidery pattern

Pearl embroidery pattern from Veliko Tarnovo

Reasoning as they can recover most are plant or geometric , but there are complex zoomorphic patterns like double-headed eagle of the castle church of Veliko Tarnovo /shown above/. Ordinary embroidery almost did not leave traces in the funerals because of its easy digestion , but some of the best preserved portraits can be viewed in detail. Her colors are blue, gray , black, red , green, and runs not only on level ground , but also on the ornate fabric.

kalotina_rec3.jpg

Richly embroidered costume princess or higher aristocrat recovered from Kalotina Church fresco.

List of Bulgarian preserved frescos and portraits from XIII- XIV century

List of Bulgarian preserved frescos and portraits, which were used for our studies of period XIII- XIV century . Some of them are currently located in neighboring countries, but at the time of discharge were all on Bulgarian territory, respectively, are depicted Bulgarian citizens. The full list with details you can find here.

Due to the dynamic historical events in the Balkans and the persistence of the Ottoman imperiya are the reason for us to reach the few monuments of that era, mostly in poor or very poor condition. However, we tracked them and tried to describe, draw and reconstruct their costumes.

Bachkovski Monastery ( ossuary ) – between 1344 and 1364g .
Boyana Church – 1259 XIV century .
Lower Kamenica – 1323 – 1330g .
Zemen Monastery – 1354
Ivanovo Rock Churches – XIII- XIV century .
Kalotina – probably 1331-1337
Karlukovo rock church „St. Nikola“ ( Gligora ) – end of XIII – begg of XIV century.
Karlukovo rock church „St. Marina“ – XIV century .
Perch ( Kastoria ) , „St. Archangels “ – XIII and XIV century .
Nessebar – Church “ John the Baptist “ Portrait from XIV century .
Stanichene – 1331 – 1332g .

Bulgarian Medieval Costume

Zemen monastery fresco

 

Bulgarian Royal couple from the Boyana Church

Bulgarian Royal Medieval Costumes recovered by freskas in Boyana church with detailed scheme.

Konstantin Asen Tih 
was emperor (tsar) of Bulgaria from 1257 to 1277

Dressed in an early version of the Byzantine Empire loros suit. The name of the costume comes from the Gaza loros adorned with precious stones, which is wrapped around the body, and whose end is worn slung over his arm. It is believed that loros is the successor of the Roman trabea triumfalis – golden purple toga worn by Roman consuls in the opening game or during triumphal processions . (Parani, Maria G., Reconstructing the Reality of Images – Byzantine Material Culture and Religious Iconography (11th-15th Centuries), Leiden, Boston, Brill, 2003) . Byzantium in this version loros lies between the sixth and twelfth centuries , and in Bulgaria and obviously later. Loros of Constantine is painted very detailed and can be seen wrapping around his body, which seems to be modeled after the toga – source ( the second picture) . Main garment – purple is adorned with gold stripes and geometric patterns the same as loros, suggesting that they are designed as a set . Other royal symbols are crown with pearl necklaces ( propenduli ) scepter , red boots with pearl decoration and probably Akaka ( bag of soil ) . Interesting is that the crown is closed and hemispherical . Byzantium this type of crown is worn after the end of the eleventh century in conjunction with the late form of loros suit ( where the gold coast is a hole and put in his head , rather than wrapped around the body).

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Irina Laskaris
Konstantin married Irene of Nicaea, a daughter of emperor Theodore II Doukas Laskaris

Unlike her colleagues Byzantine queen bears no loros . Her costume consists of a purple robe, fastened with two large pins, scepter , crown and necklace close to the neck. The crown is relatively low, in the bottom of fabric strips and hair underneath is adorned with pearls . Collar is purple with green embroidery, other than decoration on foot and cuffs . Quite likely to constitute a separate part of the costume , which is worn on the dress. Cloak is trimmed with pearls and precious stones and embroidered with intricate figures for our regret is not visible in its entirety.

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